WINEMAKERS TO WATCH ADAM LAZARRE AND PAUL CLIFTON:
Hahn Estates A push for quality in bargain bottles
W. Blake Gray, Chronicle Staff Writer
Friday, December 8, 2006
Hahn Estates winemakers Adam LaZarre and Paul Clifton, who make the
Cycles Gladiator wines, have done this before.
They created the HRM Rex Goliath brand, which was so good that it grew
from 19,000 cases in 2002, its initial year, to 300,000 cases in 2005,
helped by enthusiastic recommendations from wine shops and critics.
Hahn sold Rex Goliath to Constellation Brands in 2005, so LaZarre and
Clifton rolled up their sleeves and started over on Cycles Gladiator,
with immediate success.
They also make Hahn's other wines, including the 2003 Smith & Hook Grand
Reserve Santa Lucia Highlands Cabernet Sauvignon ($25) that made The
Chronicle's Top 100 wines of 2006.
But even that wine is not as eye-opening as its cheaper sibling, the
2004 Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon ($10), which may
be the best $10 Cabernet in the state.
What's their secret? How do a former Navy radar specialist (LaZarre) and
a surfer from Salinas (Clifton) produce deliciousness at a price point
where so many others settle for competence?
They decline the credit, saying the key is the 1,000 acres of vineyards
owned by Hahn Estates in Monterey County and Paso Robles.
"It's always best to have grapes from both a warm climate and a cool
climate," LaZarre says. "We get the dark, peppery, brooding fruit of
Monterey with the warm, light, raspberry fruit of Paso Robles."
They also make their cheap wines similarly to the more expensive ones,
keeping each block of grapes separate from the others until the final
blend.
"We can say, 'Maybe this block of Cabernet's a little herbaceous,' "
Clifton says. "Maybe we need to pull a few more leaves."
The duo has learned how to divide responsibilities.
LaZarre, 43, has enough charm to smuggle large amounts of wine -- which
was prohibited -- onto his military base on Diego Garcia Island in the
Indian Ocean. ("I made friends with all the British customs guys," he
says.) He's the public face of the team and spends 30 weeks a year on
the road marketing the wines. He also makes most decisions on when to
harvest.
Clifton, 38, who did two different university stints on the south island
of New Zealand because "it's one of the only places on the planet where
you can surf and ski on the same day," is in charge of the estate grapes
and the day-to-day winemaking. His job was more complicated this year
because his wife, Rebecca, Hahn's cellar master, had their first child,
Ella.
"Rebecca helped through harvest. We handed off the baby to each other at
the winery," Clifton says.
Starting next year, Clifton and LaZarre will have more separation of
roles. Hahn Estates has always been known for value brands, but will
also begin producing two limited-production lineups. Clifton will be in
charge of Lucienne brand Pinot Noirs from Santa Lucia Highlands, while
LaZarre will be able to "do whatever I want" with 62 acres of grapes
from the St. Gabrielle Vineyard on the west side of Paso Robles, which
is planted to all five Bordeaux varietals, Syrah and a few other Rhone
grapes. Those wines will bear the name Gaby.
LaZarre already makes 100 cases annually of Pinot Noir under his own
label ("LaZarre") that he says he sells only to restaurants that are
loyal Hahn customers.
All the small production wines could threaten the duo's focus on the
125,000 cases of Cycles Gladiator, but both say their pride keeps them
striving.
"We do competitive tastings, where we pick 10 different wines that got
90 points or more and put them up against our wines," LaZarre says. "Our
wines have to finish in the top three."
And if they don't?
"We've never had it that they don't," LaZarre says.
E-mail comments to
wbgray@sfchronicle.com.